Helminthosporium Leaf Spot and Melting Out Disease – The disease that occurs usually on cool and moist weather. Frequent rain and High Humidity will trigger the development of disease in your lawn and in some cool season grasses this helminthosporium leaf spot is the major problem that is commonly experienced in grasses especially with those who has kentucky bluegrass or ryegrass. And the bermuda type of grass will also suffer the most under warm season grasses.

Usually, its first symptoms is the leaf spot where you can see tiny purple colored spots on your grass blade may it be 1/32 to ¼ inch that will also depend on the kind of grass you have. Then as the spot enlarged the center portion then changes color it turns into tan while the edges outside will still be purple. Then the melting out period This happens depending on the mode of your surroundings may it become dry for the disease to disappear then the grass will start to grow. Otherwise the grass will turn from yellow to orange loosing its life.

Spring Dead Spot – The most
dangerous diseasethat could cause heavy damage to your grass especially with bermuda grass. A fungi commonly known in U.S. as Leptosphaeria Korrae and Ophiospharella herpotricha. These fungi usually attack a full-blown bermuda grass lawns. Those grasses that are weak and does not have enough nutrients to fight diseases are very much prone to it. This kind of disease will start to invade during fall when the soil cools up to 80 degrees by that time the disease will start to grow to attack its roots.

You will notice that your grass is sick when it is becoming dull and has patches and looks weak. This symptoms will become more clear when spring comes the growth of the disease will tend increase rapidly.

Red Thread and Pink Patch Diseases – This two diseases frequently appear at the same time. This usually affects grasses like kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, bentgrass etc.. This is the easieast to detect in lawns as this creates a bright pink color and become reddish fungus in a thread like look. During moist cool morning, the fungus invade into the grass with this pink colored gelatin known as mycelium. They strike into the grass when there is no enough nitrogen as they could easily grow in a moist, cool area within your lawn

Powdery Mildew – When this occurs in your lawn, you will notice that your grass looks powdery as if there is a powder being applied to it. You have to be alarmed as this is the disease that develops in light or heavy shade. This is very common to kentucky bluegrass and in fescue as well especially when temperature is in 60 to 70 degrees in humid weather. Unlike other diseases,this does not really attack on roots. However,the powder thing you noticed in your grass could block the sunlight that for the photosynthesis to go through it an would make your grass look dull and worst is that they could die too.

The most recommended time to repair bare spots in your lawn is during the season of fall. These spots may be the cause of your pets urine, foot traffic drought or it may be a sign that your lawn is suffering from a disease where it is being invaded by bugs or pests. When grass doesn’t grow anymore, your lawn is already prone to ruts that will create a larger portion in your lawn. What is essential is that you should match your existing grass with your newly planted ones to have a more level look of your lawn. Here are ways to repair the bare spots:

- get all the old dead grass in the spot using a shovel and trim to clean up and put in the new top soil then start to plant the seeds and in order not to be damaged by heavy rain, you can put in straw in the seeds. In planting your seeds, make sure that you don’t plunge it deeply in the ground.

- Put on fertilizer according to label instructions for a primary application.

- Patch should be covered with a straw to keep in the moisture for the seeds to develop or grow. A light spray on the seeds will also be best for the seeds to grow evenly, and make the top portion of seeds moist always.When seeds develop, keep them moist and put in ample amount of water to make it moist down from its surface.

- When seeds start to grow, avoid walking or mowing through the area until the grass will reach in an about 2-3 inches height.Also, weed control should not be use on your new grass until they mature.

Aiming for a beautiful healthy lawn needs a lot of effort and strategy. Any kind of lawn care could be possible as long as you are doing the right thing for your lawn’s good health. Here are 5 easy steps for your lawn care guide that will help you yield good results:

1. Mow efficiently – This does not only require cutting of your grass to its required height but also depends on mowing at the right time of the year. In mowing your lawn, it should not be less than one-third of its height for the efficient absorption of the sun. This should consume the right amount of light from the sun that is needed by the grass to develop a healthy plant. After mowing, your mowed grass should be left on the lawn to decompose as fertilizer that would be best for your lawn.

2. Use a sharp blade – It is important for your lawn to use sharp blade when cutting grass so it will not tear grass that would make your grass unhealthy easy to catch diseases and difficult to fight off pests. Few days after mowing, check on your grass very well especially the tip of it. If you can see brown lines on its tips, then you should make a move to get rid of those unhealthy signs.

3. Regulate water supply – The right irrigation system could help you prevent lawn problems especially the growth of pests on your lawn. Too much water would not do good for your lawn. On the average,grasses only need weekly water supply of 1-1.5 inches. that would just be enough for the clay to moistened, 4-6 inches below the surface and 8-10 inches for sandy soil. Rain Guage is the most advised in determining water supply during rain also to regulate the proper amount.

4. Keep fertilizers and pesticides at normal levels – Overfeeding your lawn with chemicals is very harmful. Be always prepared most especially during seasons of spring, summer, early fall & after the first fall be sure to provide it with balanced amount of fertilizer.. then on drought, you can skip summer feeding but not fall feeding.

5. Prevent, rather than cure – In Lawn care, you can also apply the statement that says prevention is better than cure. Regular feeding of your lawn could save its life from bugs and pests as well as diseases this could also help repair bare spots and you can use right herbicides to help you control and manage growth of weeds.

Maintaining proper care for your lawn is this easy but it also requires your proper attention for you to make things right in whatever strategy for the best of your lawn care.

Technically, weeds are annual or perennial plants growing where they are unwanted. As long as soil provides the necessary environment for plants to grow, weeds will grow too. Most soils already contain dormant weed seeds which only need the right germinating conditions to sprout.

Weeds are classified into 2 groups:

Broad-leafed Weeds - The term “broad-leafed weeds” describes all weeds that are not grass-like. Many of these broad-leafed weeds, like chickweed and spotted spurge, have leaves only the size of large freckles.

Grassy Weeds - Any grass that destroys the even texture and uniform color of a lawn is considered a weed grass. The list of these grassy weeds is long. Some of the most common grassy weeds are: annual bluegrass, bermuda grass, crabgrass,dallisgrass, quackgrass, and rye grass. With the exception of Bermuda grass and quackgrass, you can pull grassy weeds by hand or with a steel weed knife. To combat more tenacious grassy weeds, you can choose from an assortment of chemical weed killers.

To treat for weeds in your lawn, you have to understand the type of weed that you have. Since different type weeds require different types of treatment.

To Fertilize your lawn is the best way to keep it looking fresh year after year. Watering and mowing regularly would also help your lawn grow healthy. However, There are these top Lawn problems you should be aware of and find ways to solve:

1. Crabgrass - This fast growing and adaptable crabgrass could ruin your lawns if its underfertilized and not been mowed regularly. Not hard to control but timing is always crucial some would apply pre-emergence herbicides when it too late for them to patch on their lawns.

The remedy: an option for spring, is to apply gluten meal. To prevent crabgrass and fertilizers. You can keep crabgrass at bau by feeding proper grasses with ample water and fertilizer. And mow properly. Products with dithiopyr, prodiamine or pendimethalin are typical chemical alternatives. The EPA considers all three possible human carcinogens, however. If you do use them, as with all herbicides and pesticides, be sure to wear rubber gloves, eye protection, long pants, closed shoes and a long-sleeved shirt. And follow the directions very well.

2. Dandelions - They are called a perennial weed that thrive in thin lawns with little fertilizer.Also, they develop a long and thick taproot. Before the flowers mature and spread their seeds, you must kill the the entire root or the plant will resprout.

The remedy: Use a specialized, fork-like tool to pull plants and taproots out by hand. While selective herbicides with a combination of 2,4-D, MCPP and dicamba are effective chemical alternatives, the EPA considers 2,4-D and MCPP possible human carcinogens and says that dicamba can cause reproductive problems. If you decide to use those broadleaf herbicides, apply them in fall, not spring. Use granular products on wet grass, liquids on dry (but not droughty) grass.

3. Other weeds - The Dallisgrass, nimblewill, quackgrass and tall fescue develop into unsightly patches and clumps. They’re likeliest to invade areas that are drier, wetter, shadier or otherwise different from the rest of the lawn.

The remedy: There is no selective herbicide or other shortcut for those weeds. While glyphosate and glufosinate-ammonium are effective chemical remedies, the EPA considers glyphosate moderately toxic. What’s more, both chemicals require multiple applications and must be applied during periods of active growth.

4. Fungus - According to experts, Fungicides are a waste of time and money. The symptoms are: dead grass –not the cause,” says Zac Reicher, professor of turfgrass science at Purdue University. What’s more, that patch of dead grass is likelier to have been caused by your neighbor’s dog than by fungus.

The remedy: Fungus must be diagnosed and treated before grass begins to die a challenge for most homeowners because it’s hard to spot or identify. Instead, look for typical causes such as too much water, improper mowing and fertilizing at the wrong time of year. Then replant the dead area with a suitable grass type.

5. Moss - It is an attractive ground cover spread by spores that many homeowners cultivate. You can kill moss with a spray. A healthy colony of moss in your lawn means too much shade,acidic, compacted, or wet soil; or too little fertilizer.

The remedy: For very shady areas, reseed with shade-tolerant grasses such as creeping red fescue or St. Augustine and mow them high to maximize their light-trapping leaf surface. Also keep trees and shrubs properly pruned. For moss in low-lying or moist areas, water only when you see signs of too little moisture.

6. Too much shade - Most lawn grasses don’t like shade, even “shade-tolerant” varieties. While pruning most shade trees every three to five years is usually a good idea, pruning too often or too much can damage the tree.

The remedy: Replace lawn beneath trees with bishop’s hat, sweet woodruff or other shade-tolerant ground cover as the tree grows and creates more shade. Then use shade-tolerant grasses at the edges of the area. Trim back high hedges. Azalea, Canada hemlock, common boxwood, flowering quince, Japanese boxwood, Japanese holly, lilac, myrtle, privet, rhododendron, roses and winterberry can be cut back as far as needed. Shorten common hedges such as arborvitae, English laurel, firethorn and Japanese yew only a few inches each pruning, and don’t cut into bare, leafless stems. The best time to prune either is in early spring, before the first flush of growth.

7. Compacted soil - The soil in most lawns that usually become hard and compacted, even if you prepared it perfectly before planting. The more you walk on the lawn, the faster the soil compacts. Once soil is compacted, water and fertilizer can’t reach the lawn’s roots, weakening them and allowing weeds to grow. But staying off wet lawns could help delay the inevitable.

The remedy: Soil, or core, aeration is the solution. But it’s a job best left to the specialists. Those professionals use piston-driven aerators with tines that move straight up and down, rather than the lightweight, less-effective aerators you’ll find at many rental yards.

8. Grubs - Those small beetle larvae live in the soil and feed on lawn roots. A few grubs aren’t a big deal. But too many cause irregularly shaped sections to wilt and die. Try to check for grubs by cutting into the lawn near the edge of a brown area and lifting the sod. If it comes up easily, like rolling up carpet, you’ve got grubs. Odds are, you’ll see those milky-white, worm-like creatures with brown heads and three pairs of legs curled into a C shape.

The remedy: Combine Heterorhabditis nematodes (sold in paste-like form) with water and apply to the soil in the spring or fall. Wait a couple of days and reseed or replant any damaged areas. However, chemical insecticides with imidacloprid or halofenozide aren’t effective on mature grubs. So if you choose to use one of those chemicals, apply it in July and August when grubs are immature.

9. Dog urine - Small brown spots surrounded by dark green grass is a telltale sign of dog urine. Nitrogen in the urine kills the grass in the center, where its concentration is highest, while darkening the grass at the edges. Those spots are most likely to show up during hot and dry weather, when lawns are under greater stress. Don’t bother with animal repellents; they’re of little or no use, according to the experts we interviewed. A motion-activated sprinkler system might help discourage droppings, but it won’t distinguish between dogs, deliverymen and welcome guests.

The remedy: Spots of dead grass will often repair themselves eventually. For a quicker fix, cut out the dead spot and fill it in with plugs cut from a strip of sod. Bring a clump from your lawn to the nursery to match grass types. Or wait until grass-planting time — usually in the fall — and sow fresh seed after clearing away the dead grass and loosening the soil.

10. Moles - Those bothersome rodent-like critters tunnel through soil searching for earthworms, grubs and ants. Moles tend to tunnel closer to the surface in spring when soil is moist, leaving a zigzag trail of raised soil. A barrier of chicken wire that extends one foot deep around your yard might help keep them out. But because moles can dig deeper than that and occasionally travel short distances above ground, even barriers are only marginally effective.

The remedy: Trapping a mole is the only way to be sure you’re rid of it. While harpoon-type mole traps work best, handling them is risky and requires skill. Once you’ve spotted an active tunnel, you’ll need to depress the ridge of soil and set the trap over it; the mole will trigger the trap as it moves through the tunnel.Bromethalin, the active ingredient in a new mole bait, is a chemical alternative to mole traps. What’s more, baiting is far more effective than home remedies, according to experts. On the downside, while the mole will die underground, eliminating the need for you to handle and dispose of it, you won’t know whether you’ve killed it.

Source: Lawn Problems

 Most lawn diseases are the result of fungus and fungus can destroy your lawn. Learn some important information about these diseases:Gray snow mold (Typhula) This diseases appears under the snow that covers the lawn. This results in brown areas and yellow grass of the lawn then may also be a pinkish or white fuzzy looking fungus after a rainfall. Especially prone to tall grasses that has not been mowed. But This can be prevented if you continue to maintain your lawn care properly through cleaning and mowing it regularly. Cut to about a 2-inch high level. Also, not to use nitrogen-based fertilizers in late fall or early winter since this could encourage snow mold to grow.

Fairy ring fungus thrives on dead vegetation under the surface of the grass including old tree stumps and thatch.Brown Patches (Rhizoctonia) Also an outcome of lawn fungus that makes a grass tired, Hlaf dead then in a few days, the infected areas will just dry upand turn brown. Brown patches are the usual result of over fertization. Is also the result of lawn fungus and gives your grass a tired, half-dead look quite rapidly that leaves a surplus of nitrogen-based compounds in your lawn. It is one excellent reason to follow the fertilizer manufacturer’s instructions carefully when fertilizing the lawn.

Source: Lawn Diseases

Necrotic Ring Spot – also known as Leptosphaeria korrae. the most damaging disease that is commonly found on sodded lawns in the first 5 years after establishment. Its symptoms start as yellow patches which can coalesce. When the disease progresses, brown rings with healthy grass inside start to grow and the turf that is approximately 10cm to 1m diameter rings can easily be pulled out due to its dead roots and crowns.In order to avoid narcotic ring spot do not put too much fertilizer in your lawn. Applying fertilizer between June and August can stimulate the growth of necrotic ring spot. Acidic soils promote the growth of necrotic ring spot too. So check the pH of your soil and make sure that it is above 6.2.

Spruce Gall - Pineapple shaped galls found at the base of shoots of the current season’s growth are caused by the sucking feeding of the adults and nymphs. Often tips of branches are dead if the plant is heavily infested theyare formed through the small insectswho feeds on the vegetationof spruce trees.The insects has two types that cause spruce gall to grow: the Cooley Spruce Gall Adelge, and the Eastern Spruce Gall Adelge they can be 1-2 inches long and almost an inch in diameter when they developed.

Rhizoctonia – A fungus which lives in soil and roots of plants. The fungus can’t be seen unless under magnification. If plants are being dug up, ans washed in water ther roots will appear brown and rotten. Early in the disease the roots have sections which are thinner than remasining root due in the outer layerroot sheath being rotted off. There are often some recovery on the affected. But if the plants will lose its its roots stress will severly affect them. Plants do survive because we have less tillers and heads than undiseased plants.